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people fall into the cult of the Big Green Egg, they talk of lump charcoal
and alderwood, of briskets and Eggfests and temperatures of 180 degrees,
325 degrees, 800 degrees, higher.
Smoke perfumes their
lives, which they spend on decks and in backyards, hovering around their
hot, ceramic ovens shaped like eggs. They wear not hooded robes, but
aprons. They engage in sacrifice - chickens, cows and yes, sacrificial
lambs.
Praise be unto thee,
my Big Green Egg. I shall tend thy flame, I shall clean thy inner
sanctums, I shall feed thee with racks of ribs and whole turkeys, legs of
goat and blue crabs and brook trout lined up like neat rows of commas.
I'm an Egghead,
beholden to the Big Green Egg, a combination grill-oven that can hold a
low temperature for hours - important for smoking cuts of meat or fish -
or fire up to the sort of high temperatures necessary for
restaurant-quality steaks and brick-oven pizzas.
The Big Green Egg,
first introduced in 1974 in Atlanta, is based on Japanese kamado cookers.
(Prices range from $200 for the Mini to $700 for the large egg.) In metal
grills, the fire quickly heats the metal and escapes into the air. Ceramic
or clay cookers like kamados, East Indian tandoor ovens and Big Green Eggs
trap both heat and moisture within the oven.
Various contraptions
control the amount of air entering and escaping the Egg's shell, giving
cultists the power of meticulous control over cooking temperatures.
Casseroles, breads,
roasts, cobblers: Just about anything cooked in an oven works in a Big
Green Egg.
Ask us, and we'll
talk far too much about the magic of the potent godhead sitting in our
yards. Pizza? Of course! Better than you've ever tasted! Clams? Can you
say obviously? Bacon? Duh!
We are not a
subterranean cult. We fill our backyards with smoldering chunks of hickory
wood. We proselytize.
"I keep brochures in
my pantry," says Andy Wann, 44, an Egghead sales representative for a
Denver radio station. "I give them to people and tell them it will change
their lives. I preach the gospel of the Big Green Egg."
Wann's 5-year-old Egg
sits at nearly 8,000 feet on his Evergreen deck, with views of Mount Evans
on one side and Bergen Mountain on the other - a properly sublime home for
his stomach's spiritual leader.
He cooks on the Egg
several times a week. During the 2003 blizzard, when he got walloped with
more than 6 feet of snow (and lost his power - including his oven - for
four days), the Egg emerged, heroic, like the second-string quarterback
who replaces the star and wins the Super Bowl for the struggling team.
George Tocquigny, 54,
places his Egg in the same company as his circular saw and hammer.
"It's like tool
time," says the Castle Rock salesman. "There's something more masculine
about it. It's the hunter instinct, go out and shoot the dinner and put it
on the spit."
Big Green Egg
founder, president and chief executive officer Ed Fisher insisted during a
phone interview that the cult is co-ed, but I'm not so sure.
Tong-wielding men
invite women into Eggdom's folds, but spend time at the cult's own Vatican
City - the "Eggsperts forum" at biggreenegg.com - and bear witness to a
priesthood, a patriarchal clergy. Men posting pictures of their
just-cooked Cornish game hens. Men offering blueprints for Big Green Egg
carts.
How should I best
cook country ribs, asks someone calling himself Fishlessman during a
recent exchange. It depends upon how thick they are, answers Nature Boy.
Colorado's commercial
place of worship for the cult is Outdoor Kitchen in Denver, the Big Green
Egg distributor for Colorado, Utah and New Mexico.
Most of the Big Green
Egg customers are men, says Outdoor Kitchen manager Jennifer Miller,
although the occasional woman will buy one, "based in part on how easy it
is to start (the charcoal in) the Big Green Egg."
Miller herself has
been an Egghead for five years. "I don't even bother cooking steaks on my
gas grill," she says. On the Big Green Egg, "even if I happen to overcook
it, it's still juicy and has a whole lot of flavor."
For those who embrace
their Inner Egg, certain things that did not matter much before take on
great significance.
Take charcoal.
Identical blackened fuel pods in paper sacks. Stuff you fashion into loose
pyramids, douse with fuel, and light.
No, no, nope.
Charcoal must be lump, filler-free, the more varied and rough the chunks
the better.
Chuck Logan, 53, a
software consultant Egghead in Berthoud, bought an Egg, dived into the
online forum, and soon had his own website,
clconsulting.mesanetworks.net/big_green_egg.htm. He posts recipes at his
electronic devotional, photographs of cooked food, and even movies of
techniques for preparing, for example, spare ribs.
Logan's commitment to
the cause propelled him to organize an Eggfest at his house in June, which
he trumpets in the online Egg forum. So far, about six Eggheads and their
families - including one from Casper, Wyo., - are traveling to Berthoud to
stand around and cook food in their Eggs.
A shopping trip for
grills five years ago led Tom Lasonde, 39, a Dish Network salesman, to the
Big Green Egg and now he's an idealistic cult member, sticking 12-pound
briskets in his Egg at 8 p.m., waking up in the middle of the night to
check on them, and yanking them off the grill 12 or 14 hours later. He
posts pictures of food on the Egg forum, where he goes by the handle "ColoradoCook,"
and whenever the subject turns to barbecue during sales calls, he launches
into missionary mode.
"I end up selling my
clients information about it," he says. "Too bad they don't have a
referral program."
As a "big, huge
Egghead," construction manager Jim MacKinnon, 36, of Highlands Ranch,
spends a healthy hunk of free time with his Egg.
Friends come to his
house, eat his Egg-cooked meals, and profess quick conversions to the Way
of the Egg, but MacKinnon cautions them first.
"I stop them," he
says, "and say, 'Wait a minute, are you really into barbecue? Are you
willing to babysit this thing in a snowstorm? Can you clean it out and
take care of it?"'
How did he become the
Yoda of Eggville?
"It's hard to put a
label on it, but you become almost fanatical," he says. "It's so unusual,
you take barbecuing to a whole different level."
Even zipping through
the Big Green Egg forum gets his juices flowing.
"It's funny, because
it excites me," he says. "Someone's picture of a pork butt. It's awesome."
Amen, brother.
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